A Southbend convection oven provides even heat to all cooking racks. So it cooks food without burning the edges or bottoms in order to thoroughly cook the entire dish. If your oven is not working as it should, inspect the problem and determine whether the issue can be resolved without professional assistance. This could save money as well as time. Have a look at our Southbend convection oven troubleshooting process.
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Southbend Convection Oven Troubleshooting Guide
Check out the solutions for few common Southbend convection problems and their possible causes & solutions.
Oven Doesn't Hold Right Temperature
Temperature probe not working - Check the resistance across temperature probe leads at room temperature. Ensure that it would be 1096 ohms approximately.
Temperature control not calling for heat - Make sure that there should be continuity between 6 and 7 terminals on temperature control when the heat is required.
Undersized gas supply line - Check if there is an incorrect size supply line. Generally, your oven needs a 3/4" ID gas supply line.
Low gas pressure - Verify the gas pressure. Convection oven needs 7" manifold water column pressure for natural gas and 11" for propane gas.
Improper ventilation - You have to inspect the ventilation hood for inadequate or improper ventilation. Otherwise, makeup air adjustment.
Out of calibration - If it is, you should calibrate the unit according to the instructions provided in the manual.
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Hot surface ignitor glows red but burners don't respond when the thermostat calls for heat
No power to gas valve - Check for 24V power supply from ignition box to gas valve.
Faulty main gas solenoid - If your gas solenoid valve is defective, make sure to replace it with a new one. Buy the correct model number for your unit.
Ignition module is bad - Check for the faulty ignition module. If it is, replace the ignition module.
Manual shutoff valve closed - Once verify the shutoff valve is closed. You have to open it if it is closed.
Check the manual valve is turned off on the gas valve. Make sure to open it.
Reposition the hot surface ignitor to be in front of the rear end of the burner if it's not placed correctly.
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Hot surface ignitor does not glow red
No power to ignitor - Check the voltage from ignitor module to ignitor is 24 volts. Your ignitor draws approximately 3.35 amps at the start as it heats up resistance goes down. The gas valve opens around 1.8 amps.
Ignitor has broken or cracked - Examine the ignitor whether it reads continuity between leads. If not replace it.
No power or ignition module - Ensure there should be 24V from transformer to ignition module.
See the power to the transformer in between 3 and 6 on the terminal strip. Voltage has been stamped on the serial plate.
You should inspect the blower motor. This motor need to turn before the ignition circuit is energized. Although, verify the power for motors that pass through contactors.
Temperature control doesn't call for heat - It must read continuity between 6 and 7 on temperature control when calling for heat.
Check if the oven's power cord is plugged into the power supply. Have a look at the switch for continuity when it is closed.
First burner next to ignitor lights, but flame does not carry across to other burners
Burners not aligned - Examine burner carry-over wings for proper matting.
Burner and orifice out of alignment - Check whether they are out of alignment. Your orifice must inject gas down the center of burner.
Low gas pressure - Ensure that your oven has 7" manifold water column pressure for natural gas and 11" for propane.
Check for burner orifices clogged. If clogged, clear it.
Southbend oven pilot light goes out quickly
Bad flame switch - Check the reading of the switch series on microamps. The minimum reading should be 0.75 amps. Ensure there is no maximum reading.
Check the gas valve. Make sure it has a power supply of 24 volts from the ignition module on wires 46 and 47.
Blower motor doesn't ON
No incoming electric power - Check the circuit breakers and fuses for incoming power.
Loose wire connections - If there are any loose wire connections, tight them carefully.
Bad contactors - Pull in the contactor and give a power supply to the motor. Verify that the contactor pulling in.
Damaged motor - If the motor will not turn even power is being supplied, then replace your oven's blower motor.
The power supply comes through the shutdown switch to all components except for the motor. So, you have to check the continuity of the motor and replace it if needed.
How to Replace your Southbend Convection Oven Blower Wheel?
If you want to replace the blower wheel, check the following steps:
- First, you have to remove racks and rack guides.
- Next, remove the rear air baffle in front of the blower wheel.
- Loosen the two square heads on the blower wheel hub.
- Now, pull the blower wheel from a motor shift. If the blower wheel is difficult to pull off, you can use a puller disk.
If you need to access the control panel components, remove the two thumbs screws at the top and bottom of the control panel and slide the control panel out. When the control panel is slid out, all power to the control panel is cut off by a shutdown switch that is located directly inside the opening and below the control panel. For troubleshooting, pull the plunger on the shutdown switch up.
For fully removing the control panel, you have to disconnect temperature probe wires and harness connectors prior to pulling up on slide release levers and then remove.
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Conclusion:-
Southbend oven problems are never fun. But with a little help of troubleshooting tips and some know-how, you can solve many convection oven problems on your own. We hope this Southbend convection oven troubleshooting guide has helped you to solve the problem quickly. If you need any help to choose the right Southbend convection oven parts, you can visit PartsFPS.
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She was good at writing content for E-Commerce websites related to Restaurant Equipment Parts, Appliance Parts, Food Service Parts, HVAC Parts, etc.
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